Long summer days and the promise of great weather provide the perfect opportunity to escape into the mountains and go hiking. When you think of bucket list holiday hiking your mind will probably first conjure up images of the Dolomites in Italy. Soaring peaks, harsh granite lines and yet soft rolling hills. The mountains promise challenging hikes with amazing views and the chance to relax with a glass of wine afterwards. However, due to their fame, getting to see them is an ordeal that makes the idea loose its shine; you’ll need to book at least 6 months in advance, fend off the crowds and be prepared for some via ferrata sections with helmets and harnesses.
However the Dolomites aren’t the only impressive mountain ranges, and some in France are in my opinion on the same level in terms of views. They can even be more enjoyable as you aren’t battling thousands of people. So if you want a holiday with less hassle, the Pyrenees on the border of France and Spain should be your alternative Dolomites trip this summer.
To convince you of this I’ll share the peaks and pits of an overnight bivouac that I’ve just come back from in those same mountains.
Firstly, the Pyrenees are adaptable for all levels of hikers with day trips, overnight and multi day hikes to choose from. My French family and I went to the Bious-Artigues Lake located about an hour and a half drive from Pau.
Multi day option:
The hike is at its longest a 15km loop that passes by 4 different lakes. To do the full loop most people break it down into 3 days which gives them plenty of time to enjoy the afternoons and evenings at their camp sites and a leisurely pace.
Overnight option:
We chose to hike to the 3rd lake with all our camping gear, stay the night and then hike back the next day. The hike itself was only about 3 1/2 hours on the way up, and closer to 2 hours on the way back. It was challenging due to the steep grade of the slopes, but very manageable, especially when you have the whole day.
And if campings not for you, there was even Refuge Ayous, a Refugio at the 3rd lake that you could stay at and enjoy a real bed.
The sunset here was incredible and easily the highlight of the trip, making the overnight option so alluring. At the 3rd lake you’re nestled amongst sloping hills that lead to a large lake, which makes a refreshing spot for a dip!
Day trip option:
If you’ve got really limited time, are keen beans, or just want the challenge of a longer day, you can walk all the way to and from the 3rd lake in a day, just make sure you give yourself ample time to still enjoy the tranquility at the top!
These three options all share one thing in common, the amazing scenery. Every step is rewarded by the sight of growing peaks, a grazing herd of cattle and stunning lakes. The jagged cliffs are perched on top of rolling green hills and reflected back in the pristine lakes. The south of France blends culture, cuisine and the rugged outdoors into a holiday that you’ll reminisce over forever. Why not extend your trip to with a taste of paella or salt on your skin as you sun bake on the beach? After all, Spain is not so far away!
Things to note:
There were a few funny moments on the hike that are worth mentioning, like our noisy 4-legged neighbours at night… the cows.
As you’re walking along the trail in Summer you’ll probably pass a wide range of animals grazing on the luscious grass, horses, cows, pigs and goats. They roam freely up there and to make sure they can be found again later by the farmer, they all have bells. What begins as a lovely tinkling drifting its way amongst the hills to you during the day, becomes a loud clanking at night when they all descend to the lakeshore to drink and roll about in their sleep! I’d recommend pitching your tent on the side of the lake closest to the Peak de Sceau so you don’t have cows as alarm clocks all night!
But what about the crowds? Well you’re in luck, because I tested this hike over a French long weekend in July with perfect weather, so every man and their dog was there! Despite this, there was plenty of room on the trails and space to camp. Parking got a bit crowded and people were forced to park further away, but arrive early to snag a park, or late enough to swap out with the day trippers and you’ll be fine.
Finally, hike as the French do… with a bottle of wine! France is known for delicious produce and people who know how to enjoy it, so take a lesson from the French and level up your picnic with saucisson and a white wine (that you can chill in the lake) for a perfect evening apéro.
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